Overview
Inspect foundation, soffits, and roof for gaps. Seal with caulk, steel wool, or expanding foam.
Step-by-Step Guide
Walk the foundation perimeter
Circle the entire foundation looking for cracks, gaps around pipes, and openings where the siding meets the foundation. Even a gap the width of a pencil can admit mice.
Inspect utility penetrations
Check every point where pipes, wires, cables, or conduit enter the house. Look for gaps around HVAC refrigerant lines, dryer vents, water supply lines, and electrical conduit.
Examine doors and windows at ground level
Check the bottom of all exterior doors for gaps under the threshold. Inspect window frames for cracks in the caulk or rotted wood that could allow insects inside.
Check soffits, fascia, and roof edges
Use binoculars or a ladder to look at soffit vents, fascia boards, and the roof-wall junction. Look for holes, rotted wood, or displaced vent screens that could let squirrels, bats, or wasps enter the attic.
Look at the chimney and roof vents
Inspect the chimney cap (or lack thereof), plumbing vent boots, and attic fan housings. These are common entry points for raccoons, birds, and squirrels.
Inspect the garage and crawl space
Check the garage door seal at the floor and the weather stripping on the side jambs. In crawl spaces, look at foundation vents and access door seals.
Seal identified gaps
Use exterior-grade silicone caulk for gaps up to 1/4 inch. Stuff steel wool into larger holes before applying expanding foam — mice can chew through foam alone but not steel wool. Use hardware cloth or metal flashing for larger openings.
Document and schedule follow-up
Take photos of sealed areas so you can check them again in six months. Add a reminder to re-inspect twice a year — once in spring and once in fall when pests are most active.
What You'll Need
Tools
- - Flashlight
- - Caulk gun
- - Ladder (for soffits and roof edges)
- - Binoculars (optional, for roof inspection from ground)
- - Mirror on a stick or inspection camera (for crawl spaces)
Materials
- - Exterior-grade silicone caulk
- - Steel wool (coarse grade)
- - Expanding foam sealant (pest-block formula preferred)
- - Hardware cloth or metal mesh (1/4-inch)
- - Door sweep or threshold seal (if needed)
Cost Estimates
DIY Cost
$20 - $50 for caulk, steel wool, and expanding foam
Professional Cost
$150 - $500 for a professional pest exclusion service
Safety Tips
- Wear gloves when handling steel wool — the fibers can cut skin.
- If you see signs of an active nest (droppings, gnaw marks, nesting material), address the infestation before sealing — you do not want to trap animals inside your walls.
- Use caution on ladders, especially when inspecting soffits and roof edges.
- In areas with venomous spiders or snakes, wear boots and use a flashlight in crawl spaces.
When to Call a Professional
Call a pest control professional if you find evidence of termites, large rodent infestations, or wildlife (raccoons, bats) in your attic. Bat and bird removal may also require permits.
Pro Tip
Focus on the transition zones — where two different building materials meet (siding to foundation, wood to brick, roof to wall). These junctions shift with temperature changes and create new gaps every year.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using expanding foam alone without steel wool — mice chew through foam easily.
- Sealing entry points while pests are still inside the structure.
- Ignoring the garage — it is one of the most common pest entry points into the home.
- Forgetting to check where the AC refrigerant lines enter the house — the gap is almost always unsealed.
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