Overview
Check for loose boards, popped nails, rot, and structural integrity. Power wash and reseal if needed.
Step-by-Step Guide
Clear and clean the deck surface
Remove all furniture, planters, grills, and rugs from the deck. Sweep thoroughly to remove dirt, leaves, and debris. This gives you a clear view of every board, fastener, and joint. Inspect areas that were under planters or furniture closely — trapped moisture accelerates rot.
Check for rot and soft spots
Walk the entire deck slowly, pressing firmly with your foot to feel for soft or spongy boards. Use a flathead screwdriver to probe any suspicious areas — push the tip into the wood. If it sinks more than 1/4 inch with moderate pressure, the wood is rotted and that board needs replacing. Focus on areas near the house, around posts, and where water pools.
Inspect fasteners and connections
Look for popped nails, rusted screws, and loose deck boards. Check joist hangers, lag bolts, and post connectors for rust, missing hardware, or separation. The ledger board (where the deck attaches to the house) is the most critical connection — verify all lag bolts are tight and the flashing above the ledger is intact to prevent water infiltration into the wall.
Examine the substructure
Look under the deck (use a flashlight) to inspect joists, beams, and post footings. Check for cracked joists, insect damage (look for small round holes or sawdust piles from carpenter bees), and adequate concrete footings. Joists should not be sagging or cracked. Posts should sit on concrete piers, not directly on soil.
Check railing stability
Grab each railing post and apply sideways force — it should not move. Building code requires railings on decks more than 30 inches above grade, and they must withstand 200 pounds of lateral force. Check that balusters (vertical spindles) are spaced no more than 4 inches apart. Tighten any loose railing hardware.
Power wash the deck surface
Using a pressure washer set to 1,500–2,000 PSI (for softwood) or 2,000–2,500 PSI (for hardwood), wash the deck surface following the grain of the wood. Keep the nozzle 6–8 inches from the surface and use a sweeping motion. Work in the direction of the boards, overlapping each pass by 2 inches. Let the deck dry completely — at least 48 hours — before sealing.
Replace damaged boards and refasten loose ones
Pry up rotted deck boards with a flat bar and measure for replacements. Use matching lumber (typically 5/4x6 pressure-treated or composite) and pre-drill screw holes to prevent splitting. For popped nails, remove them and replace with 3-inch coated deck screws for a more durable hold. Countersink all screw heads slightly below the surface.
Apply stain or sealer
Once the deck is fully dry, apply a penetrating wood stain or water-repellent sealer using a paint roller, brush, or pump sprayer. Work in manageable sections (4–5 boards at a time) and maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Apply in the direction of the wood grain. Most sealers need reapplication every 2–3 years; transparent stains every 1–2 years.
What You'll Need
Tools
- - Pressure washer (1,500–2,500 PSI)
- - Flathead screwdriver (for rot probing)
- - Drill/driver with bits
- - Pry bar
- - Measuring tape
- - Flashlight
- - Paint roller, brush, or pump sprayer
Materials
- - Replacement deck boards (if needed, $2–$5 per linear foot for pressure-treated)
- - Deck screws — 3-inch coated ($8–$12 per box)
- - Joist hangers or post connectors (if needed, $2–$5 each)
- - Deck stain or sealer ($25–$50 per gallon, covers ~200 sq ft)
- - Deck cleaner/brightener ($10–$15 per gallon)
Cost Estimates
DIY Cost
$50–$200 for cleaning supplies, sealant, and minor board replacements
Professional Cost
$300–$800 for power washing and sealing; $1,000–$5,000+ for structural repairs
Safety Tips
- Wear safety glasses and closed-toe shoes when using a pressure washer — the spray can kick up debris and drive splinters into skin.
- Never point a pressure washer at yourself, other people, or pets.
- If you find significant structural damage (cracked beams, rotted posts), do not use the deck until repairs are completed.
- Wear a respirator when applying oil-based stains in enclosed or poorly ventilated areas.
When to Call a Professional
Call a contractor if you find rotted ledger boards, cracked beams or joists, inadequate footings, or significant structural movement. Also call a pro if the deck is large (over 300 sq ft), multi-level, or if railing replacement is needed — code-compliant railing installation affects safety.
Pro Tip
Perform the splash test before resealing: pour a tablespoon of water on the deck surface. If it beads up, the existing sealer is still working. If it soaks in within 10 minutes, it is time to reseal.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Pressure washing at too high a PSI, which erodes the soft grain of the wood and creates a fuzzy, splintered surface.
- Sealing a deck that is still damp — trapped moisture under the sealer leads to peeling and mildew within months.
- Only inspecting the top surface and missing rot on the underside of joists and boards.
- Using drywall screws instead of rated deck screws — drywall screws are brittle and snap under foot traffic loads.
- Skipping the brightener step after power washing — a wood brightener restores the pH balance and opens the grain for better stain penetration.
Local Contractors in Cranston

Cranston Housing Market
Median Household Income
$87,716
Median Home Value
$348,800
Median Rent
$1,332/mo
Homeownership Rate
67.3%
Population
82,632
Median Year Built
1957
Source: U.S. Census Bureau, ACS 2023 5-Year Estimates
Fair Market Rents — Cranston
Studio
$1,318/mo
1 Bedroom
$1,402/mo
2 Bedroom
$1,729/mo
3 Bedroom
$2,087/mo
4 Bedroom
$2,480/mo
Source: HUD FY2026 Fair Market Rents — Providence-Fall River, RI-MA HUD Metro FMR Area
