How to Inspect Your Roof for Damage — Indiana
Complete checklist with climate-adjusted recommendations for Indiana
Overview
Look for missing, cracked, or curled shingles. Check flashing around chimneys and vents.
Step-by-Step Guide
Perform a ground-level walk-around
Walk the perimeter of your home with binoculars. Look for missing shingles, visible sagging in the roofline, and debris accumulation in valleys. Note any granule loss — bare patches appear darker or shinier than surrounding shingles.
Check gutters for granule buildup
Inspect your gutters and downspout outlets for an unusual amount of shingle granules (they look like coarse black sand). Some granule loss is normal on new roofs, but heavy accumulation on an older roof signals advanced shingle wear.
Inspect flashing around penetrations
Using binoculars or a ladder, examine the metal flashing around chimneys, vent pipes, skylights, and where the roof meets a wall. Look for rust, lifted edges, cracked caulk, or gaps larger than 1/16 inch.
Look for curled, cracked, or buckling shingles
Scan each visible roof plane for shingles that are cupping (edges turning upward), clawing (center lifting), cracking, or buckling. Any shingle with visible daylight underneath needs replacement.
Examine valleys and edges
Roof valleys — the V-shaped channels where two planes meet — are the most leak-prone areas. Verify shingles overlap correctly and no bare underlayment is exposed. Also check drip edges along eaves and rakes for rust or separation.
Inspect the attic from inside
Go into the attic with a flashlight. Look for daylight coming through the roof deck, water stains or dark spots on the underside of the sheathing, and damp or compressed insulation. Mark any problem areas with tape so you can locate them from outside.
Check for moss, algae, or lichen
Look for green or black streaks on the shingles. While algae (dark streaks) is mostly cosmetic, moss and lichen have root systems that lift shingle edges and accelerate deterioration. Note areas with more than 1 inch of moss growth for treatment.
Document and photograph findings
Take clear, date-stamped photos of any damage you find. Include wide shots showing the location on the roof and close-ups of the specific damage. This documentation is valuable for insurance claims and when getting contractor estimates.
What You'll Need
Tools
- - Binoculars (8x42 or higher)
- - Flashlight
- - Ladder (if safely accessible)
- - Smartphone or camera
- - Tape or chalk (for marking attic spots)
Cost Estimates
DIY Cost
$0
Professional Cost
$150–$400 for a professional roof inspection
Safety Tips
- Never walk on a wet, icy, or steeply pitched roof — use binoculars from the ground when possible.
- If you must use a ladder, set it on firm level ground and maintain three points of contact at all times.
- Wear shoes with non-slip soles if walking on the roof.
- Do not inspect during high winds, rain, or temperatures above 90 degrees F (hot shingles are soft and easily damaged underfoot).
When to Call a Professional
Call a licensed roofer if you find more than 5 damaged shingles per 100 sq ft, any flashing separation, sagging in the roofline, or active leaks in the attic. Also call a pro if your roof is steeper than 6/12 pitch or higher than two stories — visual inspection from the ground is safer.
Pro Tip
Inspect your roof twice a year — once after winter and once after the hottest month. Most roofing damage is progressive: catching a few cracked shingles early prevents thousands in water damage later.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Walking on the roof in the heat of the day when shingles are soft and easily damaged.
- Only checking the side of the roof visible from the driveway and missing damage on the back slopes.
- Ignoring small flashing gaps — even a 1/8-inch gap can allow water intrusion during wind-driven rain.
- Forgetting to check the attic interior, where leaks often show before exterior damage is obvious.
- Assuming dark streaks on shingles are dirt — they are usually algae or mold growth that should be treated.